How is lipstick made? Inside this colorful industry of the 1940s
In 1947, LIFE magazine gave readers a look behind the scenes at the Tangee factory in Long Island City, New York. It was a time when lipstick was part of everyday dress for many American women. By the mid-1940s, an estimated 190 million individual tubes of lipstick were sold in a single year, pulling in nearly $30 million. That was enough for the federal government to collect over $5 million in luxury taxes from lipstick sales alone.
So how is lipstick made? At the Tangee factory, it all started with heated stainless steel vats, where color pigments, perfumes, oils, and waxes were mixed together at around 190 degrees Fahrenheit. Once fully blended, workers poured the hot liquid into molds, let it cool, then scraped off the excess. The cooled sticks were carefully removed from the molds, checked for flaws, and fitted into sleek metal cases.
Each lipstick had to meet a high standard. It needed to glide on smoothly but hold up against smudging and heat. Shades ranged from light orange to dark purple, with occasional outliers — like one unusual blue tone said to suit white-haired women. Once filled and polished, lipsticks moved down an inspection line before being boxed and shipped out.
Below, we’ve collected photos and original articles that show the lipstick-making process in full detail, plus a look at some of the leading Hollywood stars of the time who were rockin’ these popular shades. You’ll also find vintage lipstick ads and packaging from the 1940s, offering a snapshot of what beauty looked like in mid-century America.
Lipstick: Mouth paint is a big US industry (1947)
From LIFE magazine – October 20, 1947
To most American women, lipstick is a form of clothing; without it, they feel undressed. Consequently, lipstick production is a big industry.
In 1946 alone, American women spent an estimated $29,200,000 for 5000 tons of lipstick — 190 million individual lipsticks in all.
From this, the federal government collected $5,840,000 in luxury taxes — enough to pay the US President’s salary for the next 77 years.
How is lipstick made? The process in 1947
Lipstick is manufactured by combining perfumes, color pigments and oils with a wax base, as shown in these pictures made at the Tangee factory.
Good lipstick must spread on the lips smoothly and easily, yet once applied, it is expected to stand up under all wear and tear except the most violent kisses. The stick must not melt in hot weather, or become too hard in cold.
Lipsticks are made in every shade of red, from light orange to dark purple, to suit every feminine complexion and wardrobe.
Recently, one manufacturer introduced a lipstick of cold, funereal blue, which he claims perfectly complements white-haired matrons.
How lipstick is made: The lipstick factory line
On final inspection line, lipsticks and cases move slowly past girl inspectors on long belts to the end of the table (background), where they are boxed for shipment.
Imperfect lipsticks and containers are rejected by inspectors, who record them on control sheets.
The plant, at Long Island City, New York, can turn out 250,000 lipsticks a day.
ALSO SEE: Lip colors & vintage lipsticks from the ’60s
How is lipstick made: Manufacturing steps
Image 1: Lipstick-making begins with pouring and mixing of ingredients in large stainless steel vats, which are heated by steam to approximately 190 degrees F.
Presently, a workman (foreground) pours out a sample from a new mixture for testing and analysis in the company laboratory. Here, batches of four different shades are being compounded.
Image 2: On the other side of vats, girl worker fills the mold with hot liquid lipstick from a faucet on the base of the vat. After cooling, the excess is scraped from the mold with a putty knife.
Image 3: Molds are opened, revealing perfectly-shaped lipsticks inside. Lipsticks are sorted and examined carefully before being encased in their fancy metal containers.
ALSO SEE: Women’s shoes from the 1940s: Stylish high-heeled vintage footwear
5 famous actresses of the 1940s who loved their lipstick
1. Lucille Ball
MORE LUCY: I Love Lucy & the chocolate factory: The famous ‘Job Switching’ episode (1952) | ’50s magazines featuring the lovely Lucille Ball
2. Paulette Goddard
3. Judy Garland
MORE JUDY: How Judy Garland’s career began | See Judy’s home in 1942 | About the classic Wizard of Oz movie
2. Veronica Lake
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’40s actress Janet Blair wearing red lipstick
More lipsticks from the 1940s: Tangee Red
ALSO SEE: How to do ’50s eye makeup – brows, lashes, shadow & more – with tips from the pros
Vintage ’40s lipstick: Tangee’s Pink Queen
NOW SEE THIS: 40+ fabulous ’40s hairstyles for women
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