Hot ’70s style: Start with healthy hair, your shining asset
Fair tresses man’s imperial race ensnare/And Beauty draws us with a single hair
So wrote Alexander Pope in 1712. Today, two and a half centuries later, beautiful hair is still every woman’s goal. What should you do to keep your hair as shining and healthy as the luxuriant mane shown above? Heed the advice of New York experts!
We consulted Leonardo de Vega, top stylist at Charles of the Ritz; Pierre Henri, director of Sak’s Fifth Avenue’s salon; and stylist Marc de Costa.
Three New York master stylists — Leonardo de Vega, Pierre Henri and Marc de Costa — have each created a hairdo that can be combed out in a variety of ways from one basic cut and set.
“I like to liberate my clients so they can feel comfortable and keep their hair looking good between visits,” says Leonardo. The Oriental Sling (far right) is his easy maintenance choice for straight or curly hair. It starts with a chin-length blunt cut.
After shampooing, set two large rollers at crown (left). Wrap rest of hair around head left to right; cover like a turban with a crepelike stretch tissue. Secure; let dry halfway.
Rewind right to left and rewrap with tissue. Let dry completely. Brush, turning ends under. For a 40s variation, pin side bangs with a barrette.
Pierre Henri’s modified shag ’70s hairstyles: How-to diagrams
Follow the direction arrows shown in the sketch at left for this modified shag hairdo. Set hair on top and in back on large rollers; use medium and small rollers for the very short hair.
The same cut and set can be brushed out into the two completely different hairdos shown below, left and right.
“Long hair that lies flat on top and just droops on the sides gives you a tired look,” says Pierre Henri. And so, for people who want to keep their hair long and still have softness, he has designed the modified shag. It takes a blunt cut that is layered on the sides from the temples down. The top is one length and smoothed back with ends turned slightly under (right).
For an even softer version (right), comb hair sideways over the ear and let waves fall, framing face and hugging ears and neck. This style fills out a small face and makes a full one appear thinner.
“I believe a cut should have style, but be free to follow the line of the hair; it should be flattering from every angle,” says Marc de Costa.
His lion cut is easily adapted to different head shapes and types of hair. Short in front and on sides, it’s layered to center and crown for sculptured effect, nipped at neck, then long for soft line. Top is longer and fuller.
Set with medium and small rollers, in direction of arrows (above). Use larger ones on crown where hair is longer. Use pin curls for short strands.
How you comb out creates the two hairdos seen here. First, brush out the set from back, forward. Then comb through and begin styling. Using brush, flip hair in the direction of the arrows for a full lion’s mane (left). To achieve the sculptured artichoke effect (right), brush top hair back and up; brush sides forward.
This will curl your hair! Hair styling tips from the 1970s (1975)
How to get and take care of a perm
Today’s salon permanents condition the hair as well as curl it. New methods give body and manageability to hair and eliminate the frizzies. More exact methods of timing make overprocessing almost impossible.
Warning: Do not have a color treatment just before you have a permanent; wait a few weeks. If your hair is overbleached and dried out, a permanent will not take well. It’s best to have professional conditioning treatments first.
A good permanent will last from three to four months, and is well worth the time and money. However. if you prefer to do it your- self. there are home-permanent kits.
Fine and limp hair is the most resistant to waving lotions, and requires a stronger lotion. Fine and wiry or coarse hair takes a wave very quickly, and responds best to a mild lotion.
Gillette’s Toni has a series of home permanents to choose from, including special formulas for fine, limp and hard-to-wave hair. There’s a gentle formula for color-treated hair. Silver Curl is designed especially for gray or silver hair, and has a special conditioner to prevent dryness and dullness. Scatter Perm is for women who just want a few, easily kept tendril curls or curls only in front or back.
L’Oréal’s Extra’ Body Perm contains enriched proteins to condition and protect the hair and has a sweet, fresh fragrance—very different from the stinging ammonia smell of old-fashioned home permanents. And there’s a choice of either extra-large rollers for a full look or smaller ones for small, springy curls.
Procter & Gamble’s various Lilt Style home-permanent kits include Push-Button Lilt, which dispenses its waving action in a push- button foam for easier application. And Ogilvie offers a home permanent kit with a pre-permanent conditioner rich in protein.
Every home-permanent kit includes specific directions. Read them carefully and follow them exactly.
8 tips for a successful home perm, seventies-style
Otherwise, the general rules for successful home permanents are:
1. Decide the style you want: then have your hair cut to shape.
2. Precondition dry, damaged or brittle hair for two or three weeks before permanenting. to get it back into shape, and condition again immediately after. If your hair is bleached or tinted, always do a test curl before going ahead with the full permanent.
3. If ends are dry, wet hair, then apply conditioner to ends before beginning.
4. If your hair is color treated, the permanent will lighten the color slightly. Give your- self the permanent about a week before your regular touch-up.
5. Keep a clock near at hand. Timing is very important.
6. Block hair off in even sections and wind smoothly and firmly, but not tightly. Make sure that all hair tips are tucked neatly around curlers so you don’t end up with frizz.
7. Use all the neutralizing lotion provided. Neutralizing is the process that locks in the wave. The main cause of home-permanent failure is faulty neutralizing.
8. Avoid metal curlers or clips; metals can affect the action of chemicals involved.
How to use a blow dryer to create ’70s hairstyles
Once you have waved your hair, it’s easy to blow-dry the curls into place. The heat and air of a dryer give volume to the hair. According to Remington’s hairstylist, Richard Stein, you can actually sculpt your hair with your hands as you blow it dry.
Hand-styling helps to lift hair and give it body, height and width without making it seem stiff and set.
After shampooing hair, dry at highest setting of dryer, running fingers through your hair constantly, to allow hot air to circulate.
Then switch it down to “style” setting. Catch small sections of the hair fringing your face between the first two fingers of one hand, palm down. Twist the ends around the forefinger, turning the palm up so your fingers act like a tiny roller, to flip hair back off the face. Finish drying one section at a time.
Use this same technique for framing curls and dips, but this time keeping palms down.
If you have a stubborn cowlick, dry against the natural wave and use fingers to coax hair gently in the right direction.
For crown height, pull sections of hair straight up and train the dryer on the root from the back.
Too-limp bangs can be revitalized by pulling hair back from face and aiming dryer at root of hair from the front. Curve bangs and side pieces by winding on fingers and drying.
How to use a curling iron to create ’70s hairstyles
Another gadget that helps in the placing of curls is the curling iron. Always use on clean, dry hair.
First, use a blow-dryer to get body and hot air circulating through your hair. Then use the hot rod to get the look you want.
The tightness of the curl you get with the hot rod is determined by how much hair you roll each time and how long you hold it in the rod. As a rule, about 30 seconds will give you a firm, bouncy, long-lasting curl.
First, isolate a section of hair and comb it through to smooth it. Then, holding hair section by ends, clamp your curling iron around it at the root, slide rod to ends and rotate it to wrap hair around it. Then twirl it back to within an inch of scalp; hold 30 seconds, gently unclamp rod and slide it out — without uncurling curl. Let it cool before brushing out.