Dresses and frocks for the discriminating woman (1914)
The Washington Herald (Washington DC) 26 April 1914
Fluffy ruffles coming back again
There have been many fond reminiscences in the last few years concerning the type of dress which came to be known by the name of “Fluffy Ruffle.”
There was a crispness, freshness, and daintiness about those short, full skirts, neat waists, and simple hats that appealed to everyone.
Even the devotees of long, trailing drapery, swathing folds and bagging blouses occasionally remember the past, when fluffy ruffles ruled the earth, with regret.
Tunics and lace
Long tunics have been definitely accepted, and they will appear in thin and filmy materials as well as in heavier ones, and the tunic over a lace flounce in place of a plain skirt makes one of the newest and most interesting features while it may perhaps be a forerunner of added width about the feet.
Thus far everything has been kept narrow about the ankles, no matter what the breadth might be above. Lace flounces with silk tunics arranged thereover are few as yet, but undoubtedly they mark an innovation and may well be watched with care.
Accordion-pleaded fabrics are a good deal used in the clothes of the spring. There is one successful skirt which combines a straight, flaring tunic, that reaches just a little below the knees, with a foundation skirt of accordion pleats, short, and rather scant.
Pleated fabrics are also used in blouses of all sorts. The pleated sleeve set into the plain foundation bodice is a good feature that is in many of the new bodices. The pleated fabric is usually chiffon, tulle or some other sheer, thin fabric.
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We have grown away from what was a little extreme, and prevailing fashions show beautiful color effects and exquisite fabrics, while the favor for lace in itself means a season of charm.
There is nothing like sameness in prevailing styles either, for it might fairly be said that, while there will always be certain predominant influences, there are almost as many fashions put forth as there are great dressmakers in the Rue de la Paix, each style having its own followers.
This season, we will see a great deal of the essentially feminine and truly beautiful which is advocated by Worth and his group of real artists, with perhaps just enough of the unusual and eccentric to act as a foil.
Among the latest developments is evidence of a tendency toward the use of the cyclamen colors, as preferred to the exceedingly bright and vivid ones that thus far have been exploited.
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Since these shades are always dainty, always exquisite and always cool in effect, they are really ideal for summer, while there is no danger of losing the picturesque effect entirely since the deep, rich tones will be used in moderation and in contrast with white, and often as a foil for quieter tones, but with the coming of real heat are likely to lose some of the aggressive quality that has been apparent throughout the spring.
The short fancy little coatees or jackets over white gowns are chronicled as being much seen and since they make a charmingly picturesque effect, we will all be glad of the fact.
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An exceedingly attractive costume and one that exemplifies the feature in its newest form consists of skirt of white lace, straight and rather narrow, with over it a full tunic of an embroidered net, this tunic falling well below the knees, and being longer at the sides and back than at the front.
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