by Mrs Osborn, creator of fashions for the fashionable women of America
A) Wedding dress with Valenciennes lace & embroidered roses
A wedding gown of embroidered mull panels, trimmed with lace and medallions
The wedding gown in Figure A illustrates a very charming lingerie dress for a summer bride. It is of embroidered mull and real Valenciennes lace.
The princess skirt is formed of alternate rows of embroidered mull in a rose pattern, and Valenciennes inserting an inch and a half in width. The embroidered panels are scarcely more than in inch wide at the lower part where each panel terminates in a scallop. These panels extend to below the knees in front, each one becoming shorter toward the back, the difference in length not being very marked. Near the lower portion of the panels, the lace inserting which borders them becomes double. This double insertion separates near the curve of the panels and is gathered to their scallops in order that the lower edges of the lace may lie flat upon the flounce of mull below them. The upper part of this flounce is in irregular scallops and fan-shaped pieces of material, with the shaped pieces of material outlined by Valenciennes inserting about three-quarters an inch in width.
Those irregular circles of material between the two second rows of inserting have in their centers large medallions of embroidered mull in wreath patterns edged with a frill of lace where the medallions are sewed to the material. Below this part of the decoration an irregular band of embroidery is inserted in long shallow points. Trailing sprays of roses are embroidered in this band, droop across the lace inserting below it and fill the tiny panels between inserted medallions of embroidery shaped something like a horseshoe.
The lower part of each of these decorations is filled in with a medallion edged with a lace ruffle and about half the size of the medallions around the middle band. Two rows of Valenciennes ruffles, the second wider than the first, outline shallow points around the bottom of the dress whose edge is trimmed with Valenciennes edging put on as a ruffle. The embroidered points at the bottom of the skirt rest softly upon this ruffle.
B) Bridal gown with lace & raised-hand embroidery
Lingerie wedding gown of sheer lawn, trimmed with two kinds of lace and raised-hand embroidery
Another filmy and beautiful lingerie wedding gown is shown in B. The top of its bodice is with a little yoke of lace square at the throat and quite irregular in form. The lace extends down in the top of the bodice in little irregular figures intermingled with embroidery. The front of the bodice has an inserted lace galloon* on each side of narrow band of shirring, with irregular blossoms of lace extending out on each side of the galloon into the sheer linen lawn** which forms the sides. These are decorated with flowers and foliage in partly open and partly outlined embroidery, and are given the effect of panels by means of inserted slips of open, heavy lace.
Small diamond-shaped medallions of the same lace are inserted in the lower portion of the bodice and sides of the skirt. A shaped piece of lace secures the fullness of the blouse at the waist and gives a princess outline to the gown. A bit of shirred lawn is introduced into this lace at the sides to repeat the trimming in front and also to strengthen the filmy fabric. The blouse and skirt button in the back and of course are all one piece.
The sleeve tops are of intermingled lace and embroidery, finished with a cuff of three upstanding ruffles of lace at the elbow. Soft white satin ribbon is caught upon this cuff in little bows here and there, slanting from the front upward toward the back.
A shirred band extends down the front of the skirt beginning in a narrow strip at the top and widening toward the bottom. It is bordered by the same sort of lace galloon as that upon the waist, but without the projecting motifs of lace.
** Lawn cloth, or lawn, is a plain weave textile, originally of linen and designed using fine, high count yarns, which results in a silky, untextured feel.