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Why corsets were a multi-million dollar industry even back in 1888

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Must-have corsets: Some facts about women whose waists need support

Fifteen million dollars a year spent for corsets in this country — Freaks in waists and notions about how to get to the proper size — A large number of dress reform substitutes are displacing the corset.

There is something about the corset that fascinates both men and women. To a woman, the charm of a corset is in its utility, and man likes it for the company it keeps.

How often does one see on State Street or Wabash Avenue a group of men standing in front of a milliner’s or modiste’s window admiring the wax-work figure therein, as pretty as a picture and lacking only the breath of life to make it the sweetest of earth’s objects.

It will do no good to stop and inquire if it is the wax figure which the motley crowd so much admires, or the corset which is so well displayed upon the plump, well-rounded image. As like as not, it is the contents of the corset rather than the corset itself; but the fact remains that the corset is one of the leading articles of commerce, and one of the most important adjuncts of modern civilization.

Corsets mean big business

Two hundred thousand women in Chicago wear corsets, and they buy an average of two or three a year each. Every day one sees women carrying their new corsets home in long, thin boxes. Corsets cost all the way from 25 cents to as many dollars. A majority’ of women pay 75 cents or $1, while the best corsets in the trade are sold at $2.50 or $3. The more expensive ones are made to order.

With the women of the United States Spending $15,00,000 a year for corsets, no wonder the inventors and manufacturers have put a bewildering array of wares in the market. There are”fairy” corsets, “flexible hip” corsets, “bouton,” “comfort-hip,” “nursing,””abdominal,” “rose,” “glove-fitting,” “zephyr,” “oriental,” “French,” “aesthetic,” “ideal,” “duchess,” “watch spring,” “dermathistie,” “hygienique,” “spiral spring,” “Esmeralda,’ “beauty” and a score of others, says the Chicago Herald.

A collection of corset advertisements from ladies’ journals and magazines from all parts of the world would be very interesting. It would be a collection of pretty pictures such as these which the Herald reproduces. The claims made for the various wares would also be worth reading.

On behalf of the corset with watch spring stays, it is declared that it yields to every movement of the body, “from the faintest breathing to the most violent exercise in gymnastics.” A great many corsets are advertised as being recommended by the medical fraternity, and others are claimed to be peculiarly adapted to the wants of lawn tennis players, athletic and romping ladies.

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Sizes and shapes

Some are said to be just the thing for fat women, and others are great beautifiers of their forms. One brand is said to “beautify the figure beyond power to describe,” While in the advertisement of Paris manufacturer, a little kitten is released from the bag. “Soft, patent regulators,” claims this ingenious Frenchman, “regulate any desired fullness and roundness of ideal beauty, so perfect and natural as to defy detection.”

This is impossible by any other corset, or by the unnatural pads, which are instantly detected. Thousands have worn it for some years with perfect secrecy.” Another Frenchman, obviously a cold-blooded murderer, tells ladies how to reduce their waists two or three inches. Of course, it is his corset that will do it, and that without tight lacing, he claims, and simply by lengthening the bust.

This fiend glibly tells his customers to send him their waist measure an inch smaller than usual, adding that the second order may be an inch or two smaller still.

An Eastern corset dealer, who has in his time evidently written editorials for a circus, claims that his corset “makes any thin figure a vision of loveliness, baffling description, and defying exaggeration.” That, surely, would be a figure worth going miles to see.

>> Also see: Women are slaves to their corsets: Tight lacing (1887)

The manufacturer of a corset designed especially for stout figures informs his customers that he takes their waists below the ribs, thereby securing greater length, by reducing the figure considerably, and also supporting it below the waist, which is most essential to those to whom nature has been more than kind. There are corsets with shoulder braces, with straps and with all sorts of contrivances for securing comfort, improving forms, straightening up stooped figures and round shoulders.

To corset or not to corset?

There are two radical ideas in the corset world just now, and both of them are making headway in Chicago.

One is dress reform, which dispenses with corsets by adaptation of substitutes, such as corset waists, jackets and other devices for holding the form in dressable l shape without discomfort or injury to health. Some of these dress reform goods are championed by Mrs. Jenness Miller, and are becoming quite popular.

In one of these substitutes, cords are used instead of stays, to make the necessary stiffness, and to furnish a support to the bust. Straps over the shoulders lend aid in this. For one of the waists it is claimed that “while fitting the form closely, it leaves every nerve, vein and blood-vessel free to act.” But even the dress reformers do not abolish the corset, only substituting something else, therefore a corset seems to be a necessity to a woman.

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“Oh, I couldn’t live without a corset,” exclaimed a comely matron in a corset shop on Wabash Avenue. “I feel as if I was falling to pieces without one on.”

That is the way it is. And this being the case, a tribe of corset-makers is springing up in town — men and women who measure their customers’ waists, busts, hips, shoulders, etc., just as a tailor measures a man for a coat, and then make them corsets that fit like the traditional paper on the wall.

Corsets can be painful

“That is the secret of the corset business,” said one of these makers, a pleasant, intelligent lady. “A corset is a necessity, but it will do no end of harm if it doesn’t fit. You have heard ladies talk about the agony of ‘breaking in’ a new corset, haven’t you? Well, there is no other agony like it. Breaking in a pair of ill-fitting shoes is nothing by comparison. I’ve seen ladies in tears with the pain of a new corset. Nine out of ten of them will rush to their rooms as soon as they get home and take off the abominable thing.

“Add to an ill-fitting corset the tight lacing so common, and it is no wonder that physicians say women are killing themselves with their corsets.”

Physicians do say this, and a New York medical man recently spent six months experimenting with half a dozen women and tight lacing. He describes the results of his experiment in a medical journal, and tells us how much to an ounce the circulation of the blood is retarded, how much to an inch various bones, muscles and internal organs are forced out of place, and a lot more terrible things.

“Still, women will lace tight,” resumed this Chicago corsetiere, as the French put it. “There is nothing a woman will not do or endure in order to improve her appearance, and so I claim that the best thing that can be done under the circumstances is to make perfect-fitting corsets. Then, if they choose to draw themselves to death, the demise will be a less painful one.”

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