Three New York master stylists — Leonardo de Vega, Pierre Henri and Marc de Costa — have each created a hairdo that can be combed out in a variety of ways from one basic cut and set.
Leonardo’s “Oriental Sling”
“I like to liberate my clients so they can feel comfortable and keep their hair looking good between visits,” says Leonardo. The Oriental Sling (far right) is his easy maintenance choice for straight or curly hair. It starts with a chin-length blunt cut.
After shampooing, set two large rollers at crown (left). Wrap rest of hair around head left to right; cover like a turban with a crepelike stretch tissue. Secure; let dry halfway. Rewind right to left and rewrap with tissue. Let dry completely. Brush, turning ends under. For a 40s variation, pin side bangs with a barrette.
Pierre Henri’s modified shag
Follow the direction arrows shown in the sketch at left for this modified shag hairdo. Set hair on top and in back on large rollers; use medium and small rollers for the very short hair. The same cut and set can be brushed out into the two completely different hairdos shown below, left and right.
“Long hair that lies flat on top and just droops on the sides gives you a tired look,” says Pierre Henri. And so, for people who want to keep their hair long and still have softness, he has designed the modified shag. It takes a blunt cut that is layered on the sides from the temples down. The top is one length and smoothed back with ends turned slightly under (right).
For an even softer version (right), comb hair sideways over the ear and let waves fall, framing face and hugging ears and neck. This style fills out a small face and makes a full one appear thinner.
Monsieur Marc’s “Lion”
“I believe a cut should have style, but be free to follow the line of the hair; it should be flattering from every angle,” says Marc de Costa. His lion cut is easily adapted to different head shapes and types of hair. Short in front and on sides, it’s layered to center and crown for sculptured effect, nipped at neck, then long for soft line. Top is longer and fuller.
Set with medium and small rollers, in direction of arrows (above). Use larger ones on crown where hair is longer. Use pin curls for short strands.
How you comb out creates the two hairdos seen here. First, brush out the set from back, forward. Then comb through and begin styling. Using brush, flip hair in the direction of the arrows for a full lion’s mane (left). To achieve the sculptured artichoke effect (right), brush top hair back and up; brush sides forward.